Western North Carolina eateries are ready to welcome hungry visitors with open arms – and incredible meals – after Hurricane Helene
By Moreton Neal | Photo by James Stefiuk
Our trip to the mountains was scheduled for Sept. 29. Never would I have dreamed a hurricane, of all things, would prevent us from going.
Sylva, our destination, was spared from the floods. Its problems were caused by rumors of roads closing in the area. It wasn’t true, but tourists, the lifeblood of local businesses, just didn’t show up.
Everyone in that part of the state suffered, but the tourist-dependent restaurants took an especially hard hit. 12 Bones Brewing and its neighbors in the French Broad River and Swannanoa valleys were completely wiped out. Others remained empty because of water and power issues.
Now that the infrastructure has been restored and some businesses are open, it’s time to go back and give all those resilient mountain cooks some extra mouths to feed! As the sign outside a favorite dive says, “You don’t eat, we don’t eat.”
Asheville is packed with world-class restaurants. Some of our favorites include Zambra, Table, Fig Bistro, La Bodega, Cúrate and for a posh dinner, The Dining Room at the Biltmore Estate. And then there are the old standards – Early Girl Eatery, Tupelo Honey and our go-to lunch destination, the Moose Cafe.
Though Asheville is a food lovers’ mecca, other mountain towns offer too many irresistible eateries to count. Jefferson’s Plaza del Sol is worth a side trip. Its authentic beautifully prepared Mexican cuisine and colorful setting will make you smile.
At the other end of the Blue Ridge, Haywood Smokehouse, with locations now in Franklin and Waynesville as well as the original in Dillsboro, is worth standing in line for superior pulled pork barbecue, brisket and smoked chicken.
Sylva is home to one of our favorite dining destinations in North Carolina, Ilda, owned and operated by chef Santiago Guzzetti and his sommelier wife, Crystal Pace. The upscale restaurant occupies the same spot that housed the first Italian eatery in the area, Meatballs, founded by Crystal’s legendary stepmother and restaurateur, the late Karen Martar. Its sister venue, Meatball’s Pizzeria, still serves delicious pies on Main Street.
As you would expect, Ilda’s wine list is expertly curated, and the cocktails are delicious riffs on classics. Try the Sky High, a clever rendition of the Aviation, and the maple-scented Ilda Old Fashioned.
We never miss a chance to dine at Ilda when in the area. Though every menu item is delightful, it’s hard for me to order anything other than the Mafaldini with Lamb Bolognese. Since I can’t get to Ilda often enough, I tried to recreate this memorable dish at home – with great success!
Yes, we all missed leaf-peeping in our beautiful mountains last fall. Let’s make up for it and head for the hills for rhododendron gazing this spring. While you’re there, support the hospitality industry by visiting some of the terrific restaurants in that part of our state. You will be well rewarded.
Lamb Bolognese
Serves 6
1 large yellow onion, chopped roughly
1 carrot, chopped roughly
1 celery rib, chopped roughly
3 Tbsp. olive oil
4 oz. chopped pancetta or bacon
2 lb. ground lamb
Salt, to taste
Fresh ground pepper, to taste
1 1/2 cup white wine
1/3 cup tomato paste
Pinch chili flakes
1/4 tsp. ground nutmeg
3 cup chicken broth or more
1 cup milk
1 lb. cooked pappardelle or mafaldine pasta
Grated Parmesan to taste
In a food processor or blender, process the vegetables until finely minced (or, chop finely).
In a Dutch oven over medium heat, warm the oil. Add the vegetables and cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the pancetta and lamb and cook until brown. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add wine, tomato paste, chili flakes and nutmeg, and cook until wine has mostly evaporated, breaking up clumps of lamb while cooking. Add chicken broth and milk. Reduce heat to low and simmer uncovered for about 3 hours until the sauce is quite thick. Check and stir every 30 minutes or so and add water or more chicken stock if it reduces too much. Taste and add salt and pepper if needed.
Serve over mafaldine or pappardelle pasta and sprinkle with Parmesan.
Note: This may produce a lot of fat, depending on the bacon and lamb used. The fat rises to the top while it’s cooking. I spooned some out each time I checked the sauce before I stirred it.
