I think it was right after chef Teddy Diggs rendered the fat of the house-made guanciale for my duck egg carbonara at Il Palio that it hit me: I will never get tired of the open kitchen concept and watching my dinner get made. If you’re a home chef, you’re probably huddled over your cookbook reading the next direction, but an advanced chef like Teddy is always two steps ahead, cooking in such a fluid manner that it’s mesmerizing. Thanks to the restaurant’s recent overhaul – including a window into the kitchen – you’ll have an unbeatable view of the nightly orchestration. Il Palio has also ditched the tablecloths and redone its dining room with modern art and earthy elements like wood, marble and stone. This marriage of contemporary and old-world Italy mirrors the menu that Teddy and his team worked on all summer long. Whether you’re in the mood for a glass of wine and crostini or a smoky main that shows off Teddy’s finesse with the new custom wood-fired grill, you’re going to find something to savor. But back to my duck egg carbonara. Made with imported bucatini, a local duck egg and a salty pork that’s cured for months, the dish is a creamy indulgence that owes its almost spicy flavor to plenty of black pepper. $21
Il Palio Ristorante, 1505 E. Franklin St., 919-918-2545; sienahotel.com/il-palio
